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| ~ Getting around this scrapbook: * Some images & dialogue in Italics are repeated transitions to or from other sections (just follow your interests) *Many images link to larger ones in the Portfolio of Photos - just click them *Your browser may "block content", usually a pop-up message at bottom, but allow it to move features on this page (opening doors) *It seems I.E. might display spacing better than Chrome or FireFox, and have more options for viewing. * Hint: If you widen your browser window, you may see more of the background collage |
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*Santa Maria degli Angeli Wow Meals: * " Roma dal Cielo "
 * "Roma dal Cielo"
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Inspiring places, unexpected experiences, or just a special moment, I have a lot of "wow's". Maybe I'm easily impressed, but these are great memories.
*San Clemente is another amazing church, but not because of all the impressive baroque architecture. This one is 3 levels of Roman history penetrating to it's original base way underground - a pagan temple built during the 1st century. Walls are low and built over a rushing stream, which can be heard below the floor. In those times, pathways were narrow, crowded, built like a maze. Eventually, the outer ground level rose above the church, and another 4th century church was built atop the walls of the temple. It's walls are squatter, stronger, and arched, which eventually supported the third level, a 12th century church. Medieval frescos were saved, as were columns and tiles and stonework from many other locations that were brought to build this one. "Cartoons", the initial sketch of a fresco, were discovered at a lower level, and since the lines & colors were embedded in the plaster, the whole wall was lifted to be preserved and displayed at the top level. Most amazing to me, is that 70% of the ongoing excavations are not open to the public - imagine how much more of this site exists! I like mystery and exploring old places and San Clemente does not disappoint. Since photographs are not allowed in the lower levels, below is a pic from online.
Below, steps go to an even lower level, not open to the public. Below the grated walkway the rushing river can be heard. |
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* Catacombs of San Sebastion is another ancient, mysterious site. The tunnels below the church are extensive and full of ancient tile, graffiti, and sarcophagi. Most tombs were just shelves cut into the walls, but some family crypts were hollowed out rooms, holding artifacts, or lined with tile and family crests. Some left pots or ornaments, painted flowers on the archways, and frescos on the walls.
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 entrance to Catacombs |
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*Ostia Antica - pitch me a tent and I could live there. What a beautiful city this must have been! It helped that it was a beautiful day when we visited. The ruins of Ostia have settled into a natural, pastoral landscape. But in its heyday, it was a thriving port town to ancient Rome at the mouth of the Tiber River, from the 3rd or 4th century B.C. I'm amazed at their quality of life: hot and cold running water, flush toilets, a large public bath house, a theater, inns, and services such as depots, bakeries and laundromats. It's well laid out with columned houses as much as three-stories high, and gardens and sculptures everywhere. Failing around 500 A.D. it was later abandoned around 900 A.D. In present times, many buildings are still there, and enchanting mosaics and frescos are still preserved.
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 once a private home. |
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 once a laundromat |
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*Santa Maria degli Angeli, a favorite - I went back 3 times and at one point stayed for mass. Extraordinary, this is Michaelangelo's last cathedral and the story of his design is chronicled in an inner room. It's built on the ruins of the ancient Baths of Diocletian (more than 1000 yrs. old at the time), transforming old, darkened exterior walls to a towering interior of light. Shade to light, small detail to immense sculpture, paintings and organ, the contrast is intentional and the scale is immense. And there is the meridian!- A line of tile and zodiac figures on the floor, highlighted by the sun.A small orifice high in the opposing wall, lets the rising sun shine through at true noon, casting a ray of light on the meridian, highlighting the sign of the month. An amazing design! The church itself is beautiful, peaceful, and I felt privileged to be there. |
 The meridian progresses from one wall to the altar, in the direction of the path of the sun |
  Scale is more apparant with the organ. Note the seat for the organist, just two steps up from the floor. |
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* The Pieta , by Michaelangelo. It's satiny marble surface and detail is perfection. This sculpture stirs all who visit. It's nice to see it in it's home environment. When I first saw it on a longago school trip to Philly, it was in a much smaller room, which was dominated by it's presence. Visitors stood behind velvet ropes, but I could reach out and almost touch it. I've never forgotten it.
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*"Il Papa" - St. Peter's Square is filling fast when we walk in and though seating is provided in the center, we have more flexibility standing in surrounding aisles. A large screen projects Pope Francis as he gives his blessings and greets international groups who are meeting there that day. |
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*The Borghese Gallery is another highlight, filled to the brim with the best in sculpture, painting, bar relief, mosaics, urns, columns, and more. The family snapped up some of Bernini's best, as well as other top artists of the times. While we were there, a haute couture exhibit was also displayed and it seemed an interesting juxtaposition with the renaissance art. The house itself is beautiful, with every inch painted or sculpted. The ceilings literally capped off each room with a different theme. This was once a family home. Imagine living there! Without detailing all the works I photographed, here are a selection of my favorites. See more and larger versions in the Portfolio of Photos. |
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